Top 5 Myths About Pressure Washing, Busted
Pressure washing is one of the most effective ways to refresh a home's exterior, but there’s a lot of misinformation floating around. In this post, we’ll debunk the five biggest myths—so you’ll know exactly what PSI, detergents, and techniques really make the difference.
Myth #1: The higher the PSI, the cleaner the house
Busted: Too much pressure can gouge wood grain, etch concrete, and strip paint or sealant.
Best practice: Match PSI to surface hardness:
- Soft surfaces (vinyl, stucco, siding): 500–1,200 PSI + soft-wash detergents
- Medium surfaces (concrete sidewalks, driveways): 2,000–3,000 PSI
- Heavy-duty surfaces (industrial concrete, stone): 3,000+ PSI with surface cleaners
Myth #2: Cold water is just as good as hot water
Busted: Hot water (180–200 °F) breaks down oil, grease, and organic stains far faster.
When to choose hot: Drive-thrus, oil stains, restaurant exteriors, garage floors.
When cold suffices: Fresh mildew, pollen, loose dirt on siding or roofs.
Myth #3: Detergents are optional—pressure alone will do the job
Busted: Surfactants lift and emulsify grime so high-pressure jets can wash it away.
Tip: Use biodegradable cleaners tailored for:
- Algae & mildew (fungicidal soft-wash soap)
- Oil & grease (alkaline degreaser)
- General dirt (neutral-pH cleaner)
Myth #4: Any nozzle will get the job done
Busted: Nozzle angles control spray force and coverage:
- 0° (pinpoint): Ultra-powerful but risky—can cut surface.
- 15°–25°: Ideal for concrete and hard surfaces.
- 40°–65°: Gentle fan spray for siding, decks, delicate trim.
Myth #5: You can DIY your way to professional results
Busted: Improper technique risks injury, property damage, and trapped moisture (leading to rot).
Why pros matter:
- Experience—adjust PSI, detergents, nozzles on the fly.
- Equipment quality—soft-wash rigs, surface cleaners, extension wands.
- Safety protocols—ladder stabilization, proper containment, chemical handling.
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